Why Grow

The #1 reason to grow herbs at home is that you begin to learn what the herbs you take look like as plants. This will help you understand quality - what's nice, what's fresh. Freshness is key. Before synthesized drugs came on to the scene in the last century, all medicines came from plants (especially the sturdy ones that grow without a lot of fuss in a home garden). Organic is also the only way to go, because most plants absorb and concentrate chemicals through their roots and pass them on to you when you consume them.

Getting Started

First, it's really important to educate yourself. We recommend the following resources:

1. Eating well for Optimum Health: The Essential Guide to Food, Diet and Nutrition by Dr. Andrew Weil
2. General books about growing medicinal herbs
3. General books about using medicinal herbs
4. Get a consultation on herbal supplements from your local naturopathic doctor - listing provided by the American Association of Naturopathic Physicians
5. Always talk to your doctor before combining herbal supplements with prescription drugs

What to Grow

All the plants you're going to grow should be able to do well in full sun.

1-2 Feet Tall

1. Calendula officinalis (Calendula) - orange flowers
2. Eschscholzia californica (California Poppy) - orange flowers
3. Hyssopus officinalis (Hyssop) - dark blue to purple flowers
4. Marrubium vulgare (Horehound) -hairy silver gray foliage, white flowers
5. Tanacetum parthenium (Feverfew) - white flowers

2-4 Feet Tall

1. Echinacea purpurea (Purple coneflower) - dark pink flowers
2. Grindelia robusta (Gumweed) - yellow flowers
3. Leonurus cardiaca (Motherwort) - white or pale pink flowers
4. Melissa officinalis (Lemon balm) - pale yellow flowers
5. Nepeta cataria (Catnip) - whitish-purple flowers

4-6 Feet Tall

1. Althaea officinalis (Marshmallow) - pale lilac-pink flowers
2. Artemisia absinthium (Wormwood) - silver-gray foliage, yellow flowers
3. Inula helenium (Elecampane) - yellow flowers
4. Valeriana officinalis (Valerian) - white or pink flowers

10 Step Growing Process

1. Build raised beds and fill with organic potting soil. Frame beds with recycled plastic boards, wood, stone or simply mound soil up. A 10-by-10-foot area will grow a lot of plants.
2. Mix composted manure and peat moss into the soil at a rate of 1 part manure and 1 part peat moss to 4 parts potting soil. Continue to work in manure around plants every year in spring, but don't overdo it.
3. To new beds, add 1/8 part rock dust (available at some garden centers and nurseries) for micronutrients and minerals. Add additional rock dust every two to three years.
4. Establish pH at 6.5 to 6.8. Use an inexpensive pH monitor to check soil acidity. If it's low, add ground limestone (also called agricultural lime; don't use dolomite lime) to neutralize. Use the amount recommended on the package. Check pH annually and adjust with lime
5. In the beginning and every four years or so, add rock phosphate to bring up phosphorus levels and improve plant vigor. Use twice as much as lime, which has rate instructions on the package.
6. Don't get in a hurry. Start building a bed this year and plant next spring. Sow a crop of green manure this winter: annual rye grass, clovers, Australian field peas and crown vetch are all good candidates. The cover crop is a rich source of nitrogen. Come spring, turn it under, wait two weeks and plant. Add lime when you till in the cover crop to minimize the chance of nitrogen burn.
7. Once established, herbs require very little care. Don't overwater; you want roots to penetrate deep in search of water so they'll come in contact with more nutrients. Slightly water-stressed plants are stronger.
8. Harvest in early flower stage. Cut just what you need, leaving enough of the plant to regenerate (at least 4 to 6 inches). After harvesting, dry herbs at a steady, consistent rate. They should dry within 48 hours for best quality. Some options: Use a food dehydrator; lay them on shelves made of screens in a dark closet; hang them in a dark closet (but don't use a rubber band to hold stems together; loosely bundled herbs dry more consistently); or lay them out on brown paper bags in a dark closet. Don't use the attic or garage, where it may get damp at be subject to fluctuating temperatures.
9. Once dry, package herbs in quart jars with a tight lid. Cut them just small enough to get in the jar; the larger you leave the herb the slower it breaks down. Most important: make sure you label the jar and date it. If you have space, store jars in the freezer. Otherwise, keep them away from heat and light. Many dried herbs have a shelf life of three years, and even, longer if kept in the freezer. The best case scenario is to replenish dried herbs each season. Herbs will not mold if dried completely before storing.
10. Enjoy your herbs using some of our great medicinal herb recipes.